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A guide to Giorgio Armani men’s clothing brands and diffusion lines, vintage and contemporary

A guide to Giorgio Armani men’s clothing brands and diffusion lines, vintage and contemporary

insights on menswear and tailoringHitting his stride and launching his own label in the 1970s, renowned fashion designer Giorgio Armani has built one of the largest and most successful fashion businesses on the planet. Following the usual corporate growth path trodden by most designers and fashion houses since the 1960s, the brand has been expanded into a portfolio of spinoffs and diffusion lines to accompany the signature line, both expanding access to aspirational buyers and providing specific lanes to pursue creative exercises, through a mixture of in-house undertakings and licensing...

January 31, 2023
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Review: A Tempo Rubato V-neck sweater

Review: A Tempo Rubato V-neck sweater

insights on menswear and tailoringThe world of men’s knitwear has evolved to a point where the majority of offerings are homogeneous in a bad way; made from paper thin merino or cotton, extremely long in the body, with very low armholes and thin, flimsy ribbing. When it comes to V neck knitwear, most offerings also have a very shallow cut at the neck which is aesthetically displeasing. Menswear enthusiasts, especially in recent times, are generally inclined to the opposite; a shorter body length to go with mid to high rise trousers, sturdy material and construction, and high armholes for...

November 18, 2022
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The Armoury Model 7 sport coat review

The Armoury Model 7 sport coat review

insights on menswear and tailoringA menswear retailer that has been a mover and shaker in the classic menswear niche for just over a decade, The Armoury has built a reputation for excellent craft and curation. They offer a range of menswear and accessories made by various artisans from around the world, operating on multiple fronts including offering their own ready to wear line, acting as a go-between for bespoke artisans and hosting trunk shows for visiting makers. Most of The Armoury’s ready to wear is made by the esteemed Japanese brand Ring Jacket, who are reputed as one of the highest...

October 19, 2022
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Review: Private White VC tracksuit

Review: Private White VC tracksuit

insights on menswear and tailoringSportswear is a category I’ve largely ignored in the past, putting all of my attention into the intricacies of tailored and vintage clothing. However, in spite of the ignorance, it’s something which I – and I’ll wager the rest of my sartorially inclined peers – wear regularly regardless. As such, when it recently came time to replace the couple of tracksuits I’d been wearing for seven years prior, I decided to do some research and find something crafted better than the usual fare from the major brands.Private White V.C. is a brand that has been on my radar...

September 14, 2022
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How to get the most out of an orphaned suit jacket

How to get the most out of an orphaned suit jacket

insights on menswear and tailoringWhen the trousers of a suit wear out, there tends to be two main schools of thought; the first says the jacket has to go, the second says wear the jacket ‘casually’ as a blazer. These two mainstream pieces of advice are, frankly, somewhat bad. Throwing the jacket out is wasteful, and the latter tends to steer people towards wearing a jacket of crisp worsted fabric paired with jeans or beat-up chinos, almost always jarring due to the inharmonious clash of textures. Changing the buttons isn’t enough; you can always spot the guy wearing an old suit jacket with...

August 23, 2022
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