José R. Ralat
José R. Ralat
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This Dallas Tex-Mex Spot Ruins a Good Meal With Distasteful Decor

This Dallas Tex-Mex Spot Ruins a Good Meal With Distasteful Decor

Sort ByFilter ByLocationsTypeView ResultsFiltersAt Odelay, a new Tex-Mex restaurant on the edge of Park Cities in Dallas, a mural on an interior wall features a bird’s-eye view of Juárez, Mexico, at night. A propeller plane flies above the city. On the bottom left of the painting is a pile of cash; on the bottom right, a handgun. Between the money and the gun are the words: “El Señor de los Cielos,” or “Lord of the Skies.”Chef-owner Julian Barsotti denies the painting is an homage to Amado Carrillo Fuentes, the onetime leader of the Juárez cartel who died in 1997. But the references are...

September 20, 2022
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In Amarillo, a Mexican Restaurant Named “Big Beaners” Provokes Controversy

In Amarillo, a Mexican Restaurant Named “Big Beaners” Provokes Controversy

Sort ByFilter ByLocationsTypeView ResultsFiltersByByByByByByWith our Food & Drink newsletter.ByByByandByByByByByByBy

June 2, 2020
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Forget Taco Tuesday. At Vaqueros Texas Bar-B-Q, It’s All About Thursday Taco Night.

Forget Taco Tuesday. At Vaqueros Texas Bar-B-Q, It’s All About Thursday Taco Night.

Sort ByFilter ByLocationsTypeView ResultsFilters ByByByByByByWith our Food & Drink newsletter.ByByByandByByByByByByBy

March 22, 2021
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Hear Ye, Hear Ye: March 31 Will Be World Taco Day in Houston

Hear Ye, Hear Ye: March 31 Will Be World Taco Day in Houston

Sort ByFilter ByLocationsTypeView ResultsFiltersLike most restaurateurs during the pandemic, Arnaldo Richards has had a tough year. He still remembers the “sobering moment” just over a year ago—on March 16, 2020—when Harris County Judge Lina Hidalgo ordered Houston restaurants to close their dining rooms. “That’s when we realized no one was coming to save us,” he said. The team at Picos, the Mexican restaurant that Richards and his wife, Janice, co-own on Kirby Drive, scrambled to rethink their business model. Within 72 hours, Picos was fully digital and accepting online orders. Still, as...

March 25, 2021
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The San Antonio Taco Trail

The San Antonio Taco Trail

To see all six Taco Trails and to dive into our Ultimate Texas Tacopedia, go to . This story was originally published in November 2020 and has been updated.The River City is the cradle of Tex-Mex, and its tacos reflect that fact. First and foremost, there are the city’s breakfast tacos. Or as San Antonians call them, tacos. There are also puffy tacos—the taco’s full name is the San Antonio–style puffy taco. The minor league San Antonio Missions baseball team even has a puffy taco mascot. Tacos are everywhere, including delectable barbacoa tacos. So beloved is the dish that there is an...

November 18, 2020
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The Best Fast-food Tacos in Texas

The Best Fast-food Tacos in Texas

Sort ByFilter ByLocationsTypeView ResultsFiltersPass on: The breakfast taquitos at Whataburger might be famous, but theyre also underwhelming, with bland fillings in overly chewy tortillas. The best of them is the peppy breakfast sausage with American cheese. The seed-flecked salsa verde does a decent job of salvaging the taco. I also wasn’t a fan of the breakfast tacos I sampled at the Frisco location of Austin-based Taco Shack. The flavorful chorizo wasn’t enough to overcome the cold, white flour tortillas and soggy cubed potatoes.Pass on: Pass on: Taco Bell’s Doritos Locos Tacos. Yes,...

December 10, 2020
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The Ultimate Texas Tacopedia

The Ultimate Texas Tacopedia

Your guide to the many types of tacos around the state, where to find them, and how to enjoy them!By José R. Ralatphotograph by Mackenzie Smith Kelleyack in April, as we were grappling with the early stages of the pandemic, I wrote an optimistic ode to what I called “.” Not only did my favorite food offer tortilla-wrapped comfort when we needed it most, but its versatility, economy, and portability made it almost pandemic-proof. “There’s never been a better time to sell tacos,” Andrew Savoie, the chef and co-owner of Dallas’s Resident Taqueria, told me at the time.What I’ve witnessed this...

November 18, 2020
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