Name: Tomo Koizumi Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Brand: vogue.com
SKU: vogue-com-14
Availability: OnlineOnly

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Tomo Koizumi Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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“Is that the show for the giant dresses?” was the question heard around the fashion world this week. Tomo Koizumi is the designer, and, yes, the dresses are huge. But to write off Koizumi as a confectioner is shortsighted. Up at Marc Jacobs’s Madison Avenue store, where Koizumi held a first fashion show, put on with the help of Katie Grand, Guido Palau, Pat McGrath, Jin Soon, Tabitha Simmons, Anita Bitton, and a cast of A-list models, the Japanese designer proved his mettle.Grand had orchestrated the whole affair, having discovered Koizumi on Instagram through her friend Giles Deacon. Koizumi arrived stateside just five days ago—only his second time in New York—with three boxes of garments, some new, others from his archive. He set up shop at Marc Jacobs’s studio in Soho, where his florescent polyester organza pieces were being revived from their journey halfway around the world. In a preview, Koizumi explained his complex inspirations that range from Capucci to Leigh Bowery to hanawa, a Japanese funerary banner with plastic floral designs. He’s also very fond of Sailor Moon and the idea that a woman can be at once cute and strong. His pieces are geometrically constructed; a sleeve can be a circle or a skirt a rectangle, none more arresting than the azure disk with arm and leg holes that transforms its wearer into a blue moon. He describes his ruffles as a type of armor; unsurprisingly he has found success dressing pop stars and actresses in his native country.What role will Koizumi serve in the ready-to-wear and retail-minded American fashion scene? In the basement of the Marc Jacobs store he created a Wonderland worthy of Alice herself, where social roles were upended (even V.V.V.V.I.P. guests stood), proportions were skewed and slanted, and viewers were guided through this dreamlike narrative by white rabbits as compelling as Karen Elson, Joan Smalls, and Gwendoline Christie. The fantasy, for a moment, was reality. American fashion needs that, too. As if he knew what the people who bemoaned going all the way up to 60th Street for the “giant dresses” would say, Koizumi also embellished some of the collaborative tees Jacobs made with Hey Reilly in 2018. Lady Liberty smiled on the front, while the sleeves were swallowed by cloud-like ombré ruffles. Give us your dreamers.

“Is that the show for the giant dresses?” was the question heard around the fashion world this week. Tomo Koizumi is the designer, and, yes, the dresses are huge. But to write off Koizumi as a confectioner is shortsighted. Up at Marc Jacobs’s Madison Avenue store, where Koizumi held a first fashion show, put on with the help of Katie Grand, Guido Palau, Pat McGrath, Jin Soon, Tabitha Simmons, Anita Bitton, and a cast of A-list models, the Japanese designer proved his mettle.Grand had orchestrated the whole affair, having discovered Koizumi on Instagram through her friend Giles Deacon....

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Steff Yotka

Condé Nast

Condé Nast is a global media company that produces some of the world’s leading print, digital, video and social brands. These include Vogue, GQ, The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, Wired and Architectural Digest (AD), Condé Nast Traveler and La Cucina Italiana, among others.

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Tomo Koizumi Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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